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Sugar gliders are omnivores, which means they will eat both plants and animals (insects). They are from Australia. There they eat crickets, mealworms and other insects that are attracted to light sources put up by their owners. They can also be fed high quality kitten food and love (and need) fresh fruits. Sugar gliders need to get calcium through their diet and insects are not made of enough calcium to meet the sugar glider's needs; therefore supplementation with calcium salts is recommended.

Their diet should consist of 20-30% fruit, 40% vegetables (citrus fruits can cause diarrhea, canned fruits have too much sugar, frozen vegetables are ok), 25% protein (such as high quality cat food, and insects), and 15% breads and cereals (not too sugary or high in fat). Gliders need lots of carbohydrates which breads and cereals can provide. Occasionally give them small pieces of wheat bread, shredded wheat squares or other non-sweet cereals. Try experimenting with new foods, and make sure to rotate favorites to keep gliders from losing interest.

In the wild, insects are a regular part of a sugar glider's diet. They really enjoy eating live insects like crickets and mealworms. However, crickets are preferred over mealworms; they are lower in fat, higher in protein, and have a better calcium/phosphorus ratio. Make sure that the insects have not been exposed to pesticides.

Things to NOT feed your sugar glider:

candy/junk food
onions/foods with onion powder
wild insects (they could have pesticides on them)
houseplants (not even if they are non toxic)
distilled water

Keep to a Minimum:

Seeds or nuts (only as occasional treats)
cat or dog food
ferret food (It's extremely high in fat)
Any foods with a lot of fat or refined sugar
Housing Sugar Gliders

Bigger is always better! It would be best to get the tallest cage possible, at least about 3 feet. An aquarium is not a suitable cage. A lot of the sugar glider cages are way too small. It is cruel to keep a glider in a small cage. Bare wire cages can irritate glider feet and it can get really noisy when they climb on it. It is best to get or make a vinyl or powder coated wire cage. If you are going to buy a cage make sure the hole spacing is not any bigger than 1/2" x 1", smaller if you are planning to breed them.

Supplies:

1. Nestbox or pouch (a safe place to sleep)
2. Non-toxic branches and perches (eucalyptus or manzanita
3. Food dishes/water bottle (Large bird seed cups work well. Get ceramic/stainless steel dishes)
*NOTE* Gliders won't usually eat food too close to the ground. Also, if they are placed high in the cage, it is less likely poop will fall in their food. Water bottles shouldn't be too big; the water needs to be changed often. Bird water bottles are a good choice.

4. Toys (bird toys such as swings, rings, ladders, and mirrors) be careful not to get any with loose strings or fabric they might ingest. Be sure to rotate toys to keep gliders from losing interest. A wheel can provide additional entertainment and exercise. However, an exercise wheel should not have cross bars or spaces where fragile tails can get caught, so regular hamster wheels are not a good idea.

5. Bedding. Do not use newspaper, cedar, or pine, these are toxic to small animals. Instead, use aspen shavings, oat hull, or corncob bedding.

6. Plastic or metal tray.

How should I clean its cage?
The cage needs cleaned once a week. If you have a male, be careful not to clean too often or this will result in the males scent marking more. A mixture of baking soda and water sprayed on the cage and rinsed off helps control odor best. If your cage is very large and cannot be rinsed off easily, use a damp sponge to wipe off the baking soda instead.

Glider Proofing Your Home/Glider Play Room:

1. Check windows/ screens for repair.
2. Don't sit down on anything unless you know the glider isn't in it. The gliders can be suffocated or killed by reclining mechanisms.
3. Toilet lids need to be down but gliders may still be able to get into the toilet with the lid closed. (Keep bathroom door always closed).
4. Make sure there is no standing water in sinks, vases, etc.
5. All drains should be closed.
6. Drain plugs should be secured so the gliders cannot lift them to explore the holes.
7. Cover all outlets.
8. Check electrical cords to make sure they aren't being bitten. Bundle and secure your cords whenever possible. Make sure the electrical cords behind appliances are not exposed.
9. Keep the ceiling fan off.
10. Keep all medications/drugs inaccessible.
11. If you can fit your finger under the door, they might be able to get out. Make sure the opening is plugged with something they cannot move.
12. Make sure fish tanks have covers on them.
13. Make sure a/c & heating vents cannot be accessed.
14. Watch out for holes in anything such as the VCR, other electronics, wholes in ceilings or walls, kitchen appliances (dishwashers, etc.), dog doors, fireplaces, etc.
15. Vacuum often.
16. Make sure there is no poison sitting around the house.
17. Make sure the trash is inaccessible.
18. Keep chocolate and caffeine away from your glider.

Sugar Gliders are social animals. If you cannot spend a minimum of 2 hours a day playing with your glider you should get a second one to keep it company. Without social interaction they will become depressed and die. They live in captivity up to 15 years, so be sure you will be able to keep the entire commitment before purchasing a sugar glider. They can be complicated and can have expensive needs. It is not an animal that is put in a cage, fed and forgotten about. For more information, see Amazon.com for books on the care and husbandry of sugar gliders and PETCO stores for supplies and information.